Alexander Estate: Lanihau & Haumalu
For 50 years the Alexander Estate consisted of two neighboring homes owned by the same family: Lanihau (beautiful hau tree), & Haumalu (in the shade of the hau tree).
Lanihau was built in 1930 by Wallace McKinney Alexander (2) (1869 - 1939).
Haumalu was built around 1932 by "Ann & Jay Gould of New York" and bought by Wallace McKinney Alexander in 1936 for his daughter and her husband.
Both were designed by the prominent Hawaii architect Charles William Dickey.
Counted together, Lanihau & Haumalu were used in (at least) six episodes of Magnum P.I.
Skin Deep (1.6)
The Woman on the Beach (2.3)
Flashback (3.7)
The People vs. Orville Wright (7.21)
Forever in Time (8.5) - in this episode each house was used once, for two different residences
Legend of the Lost Art (8.10)
The history of Lanihau & Haumalu is found below the following pictures.
photos of Lanihau
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photos of Haumalu
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The homes of Lanihau & Haumalu have much to do with the history of the Alexander family in Hawaii. There's a vast amount of information on the web about the family, mainly in interviews conducted in the 1980s and 90s by the Regional Oral History Office, of the Bancroft Library at the University of California, Berkeley. The Alexander's were a prominent family of San Francisco, as well as Oahu and Hawaii. With so much information to sift through, it has been difficult to get a precise picture of details about the house, and family history. The interviews involve a number of people in and out of the Alexander family being interviewed at different times, and details often seem to be contradicted and pertinent questions left unanswered. The write-up that follows, such as it is, is my attempt at presenting the story accurately and coherently.
Wallace M. Alexander (1869-1939), the first owner of the Lanihau home and second of the Haumalu home, and Charles W. Dickey (1871-1942), the architect of the two homes, were both descended from an early Hawaiian missionary by the name of William Patterson Alexander (1805-1884). William Alexander left New Bedford, Massachusetts, on November 26th 1831, and by way of Cape Horn arrived outside Honolulu on May 18th, 1832, twelve years after the first Hawaiian missionaries came to the islands. Those who know of the Chamberlain House in Honolulu may find it interesting that his first night was spent there, only a year after it was built. The Reverend William Patterson Alexander was Wallace M. Alexander's paternal grandfather, and Charles W. Dickey's maternal grandfather, so apparently Wallace and Charles were cousins.
The following passage is mostly copied from here:
Wallace Alexander and his father Samuel T. Alexander "joined with Henry P. Baldwin and J.P. Cooke to found Alexander and Baldwin in Hawaii, incorporating their plantation and commercial interests. Wallace Alexander was in charge of the San Francisco operations for thirty years. After the death of J.P. Cooke in 1918, Wallace served as president until 1930, when he became chairman of the board and felt free to spend time in his new house at Diamond Head." [Lanihau.] |
Alexander and Baldwin was one of the "Big Five" companies in pre and post statehood Hawaii. Their primary business consisted of sugarcane plantations. Here's a Honolulu Star-Bulletin article about the Big Five. Later in his life Wallace Alexander was also a publisher of "the old" San Francisco Bulletin.
Update: 12.28.2010. I came across three photographs at the Hawaii State Archives showing Wallace Alexander (among others) in October of 1936, after his arrival on Oahu via the Pan American Clipper. Photos one, two, and three.
Wallace Alexander's primary residence was near San Francisco, but Alexander and Baldwin was based in Honolulu, and in 1929 Wallace Alexander bought the property that would become Lanihau from a man named Atherton Richards (a rancher who was also a grandson of a missionary, by the name of William Richards). The architect C. W. Dickey designed the Lanihau home and it was built in 1930. Wallace Alexander and his wife spent about half of any given year at Lanihau, and half at their home in Piedmont, California, across the bay from San Francisco.
At the time Lanihau was built, the property next door (west) that would become Haumalu had only a white clapboard house. That was torn down a few years later (or possibly in 1931) and the Haumalu home was built in it's place. Haumalu was also designed by C. W. Dickey and was built for "Ann & Jay Gould of New York". (Possibly the children or grandchildren of Jay Gould, American financier and Railroad baron, but this is speculation on my part.) In 1936, Wallace Alexander and his wife Mary bought Haumalu as a vacation home for their daughter Martha, and her husband Dr. Frank Gerbode, who later became a renowned heart surgeon. Lanihau & Haumalu were now both owned by the Alexander family, making a contiguous four-acre parcel of property. Martha and Frank seem to have lived most of the year at their home in San Francisco. Dr. Frank Gerbode said in this 1984 interview:
"We rented our house a good deal of the time, because obviously we couldn't use it fully. I was busy being a doctor, or being trained to be a doctor." He also happened to mention that "[Lanihau & Haumalu have] been illustrated quite often in various architectural magazines." |
Martha Alexander Gerbode inherited both Lanihau & Haumalu from her mother Mary a few years after Martha's father Wallace passed away in 1939. She may or may not have inherited the homes before the start of World War II, but definitely before the War's end. As an aside, Martha was also a witness to the bombing of Pearl Harbor on December 7th, 1941.
During WWII Lanihau & Haumalu were used for R&R by the Navy and Marines (possibly only officers, but I'm unsure on this point), and an Admiral even put a plaque on an outdoor fireplace showing that he had lived there during the war. (It wasn't mentioned who this Admiral was.) The following passage about the home during World War II is taken from this interviewer's write-up:
Lanihau and Haumalu were recognized both for the beauty of their setting and the charming character of the houses themselves. During World War II Martha leased both properties to the armed forces for use as rest and recreation facilities. The way Martha opened her homes made her something of a celebrity in the war's Pacific theater. At the end of hostilities, the woman responsible for operating Haumalu wrote a personal note to Martha: "I know that you will receive thanks from the Navy and Marines for the use of your lovely home, but I feel impelled to write also because I, as an outsider, know so much of the great happiness you made possible for the boys. .. .there was something about the Rest Home not found in other places." She mentioned the "construction that makes for homeyness and a feeling of intimacy," as well as the presence of Martha's own furnishings and the "lovely setting." She added: "News of your visit there spread to all parts of the Pacific and each new group asked about you. One thing that impressed them was the fact that you (and I) were pro-Roosevelt. That the owner of such a home should be, struck them as proving that you were "pretty fine." |
Haumalu was rented out to movie stars "who caused quite a stir on Diamond Head" such as Esther Williams, and "Hopalong Cassidy" - William Boyd played the Hopalong Cassidy character in films. Kirk Douglas used the house every summer, as well as Andre Kostelanetz, and others who were not named. (Lanihau may also have been rented out to these people. I suspect it was, but am unsure.) The following quote is from Maryanna Shaw, daughter of Martha Alexander Gerbode:
"The problem with having people from Hollywood in a property like that was all the neighbors were a little upset at the parking, the parties [laughter], and the loud noises at night." |
Sadly, in the "middle or late sixties" Haumalu was destroyed by a fire. However it was rebuilt according to the original plans. Dr. Frank Gerbode:
"One of the renters left a cigarette burning in the bedroom while he was looking over his income tax papers. He had failed to submit income tax returns for a couple of years, although he was a wealthy man. I think he was trying to sort out the papers so that he'd have answers for the IRS, and he either left a cigarette near them or something like that happened. So the house virtually burned down. But we had it fully insured, so we rebuilt it pretty much the way it was before." |
There was some suspicion that the fire was started on purpose. According to Maryanna Shaw, daughter of Martha Alexander Gerbode and Dr. Frank Gerbode:
"There was a rumor that someone wanted to burn his tax returns because a little fire started in a wastepaper basket. My parents were able to recover the plans, however, and rebuilt it just exactly as it was before." |
From the 1960s to her death in 1971, Martha Alexander Gerbode was heavily involved in the Save Diamond Head movement, which sought to keep the area of Diamond Head free from commercial development and high-rise buildings. The movement began after the building of the tall hotels and apartments that still exist today along Kalakaua Avenue, just to the northwest of Lanihau & Haumalu, and also the buying up of private residences around Lanihau & Haumalu by commercial developers. Save Diamond Head is likely the primary reason why there are very few hotels and tall buildings near Diamond Head today. Otherwise, it seems the area between Diamond Head and the beach would have become much like Waikiki, even to the point of partially hiding the unique beauty of Diamond Head behind tall hotels and apartment buildings. The following passage, including quotes by Martha Alexander Gerbode, is from a 1971 issue of San Francisco Magazine (found here):
"Hawaii is as much home to me as San Francisco and Piedmont, where I was born," smiles Mrs. Gerbode. "My great-grandfather, William Patterson Alexander, was a missionary who sailed to the Islands from New England with his bride in 1832. My father and grand father were born in Hawaii." Little Martha made her first journey to the Islands at the age of two and has lived over there part of every year since. "When I was a child, I used to ride my horse down Kalakaua Avenue. We played robbers and police on horseback and we used to make trails through the jungle. I wish my five grandchildren could ride horses 'round the Island and see it the way we knew it. I wish they could go ti-leaf sliding the way we did..." Mrs. Gerbode helped save Diamond Head, the picturesque backdrop behind Waikiki Beach in a 10-year battle with developers. "We have a house on Diamond Head. It has a magnificent view on one side and a smothering highrise on the other, so I was naturally concerned." she explains. "The city made a mistake in the early Sixties when it allowed the first highrise to be built on the Diamond Head side of the Waikiki Natatorium [2]. Once the line was broken, it became increasingly difficult to hold it farther on. Save Diamond Head Association was fighting to keep the slopes below Diamond Head Road in single-family residences. Then over a period of time, as the state could afford to buy up those private homes. Kapiolani Park [map] would eventually extend out to the Lighthouse [map] at the other end of the road." |
A small handful of parcels of land below Diamond Head Road have been turned into parks, but new homes have also been built there in recent years. One of the properties that is now a park once had a home [bottom of this post] that was used in the Hawaii Five-O episode While You're At It, Bring In The Moon which aired in 1972.
In 1966 Martha Alexander Gerbode bought with her own money [page 268] a nearby home and property known as the Fagan house [map and info here] at a cost of $572,500 (approximately equal to 3.75 million today). The property was of crucial importance to those wanting to develop the area.
"... the reason why it was so strategic was that [the developer] had bought properties on either side of the Fagan house up the hill on Diamond Head Road. Therefore she didn't want him to own the Fagan house because it would make a clear sweep of the area beneath Diamond Head." |
The following passage [same page as the previous link] is a statement Martha Alexander Gerbode wrote to the Honolulu City Council Public Works Committee in 1967:
"There is absolutely no doubt that the character and natural beauty of Diamond Head would be destroyed by the construction of more apartments and hotel buildings around its base. "Therefore, to ensure the proper setting for Diamond Head, I have purchased the former Fagan property at 3241 Diamond Head Road. I intend to keep it, as well as my other property at 3101 Diamond Head Road, in single-family residential use. "This is a gesture that I hope will be followed by my neighbors. I certainly hope that our Mayor and the members of City Council will take note of the spirit in which this gesture has been made. "And I hope that they will have the foresight to retain the present single-family residential zoning in blocks makai [towards the sea] of Diamond Head Road so that Kapiolani Park can eventually be continued to the Lighthouse. "I realize that this park extension will not happen overnight. It will take many years. But in the meantime, residential use around the base of Diamond Head would retain the character of the area until arrangements can be made for the eventual park development." |
She later sold the home - knowing it would continue to be used as a single-family residence - to a private individual for the same price that she had bought it for. The following passage is a quote from Aaron Levine, the City Planner at the time, speaking about a hearing on the future of Diamond Head:
"There's the famous meeting that was held June 30, 1967. It was a meeting of the city council public works committee. The chairman was Ben Kaito, a lawyer. The meeting was held to discuss Diamond Head and the plans for Diamond Head. I was sitting there with Martha Gerbode. I had a prepared statement on behalf of ODC. Martha was there as well, prepared to speak. Chinn Ho was not present, but his planner was there, a former planning director of the City and County of Honolulu who formed his own planning firm. He brought in a model about twenty inches high of two or three apartment buildings. It showed Diamond Head and had a high-rise building - one of the three highrises - right on Martha Gerbode's property. [laughter] The woman almost blew apart. I can still remember the blast of exasperation as she realized that what they were proposing was on her property. I wanted to present a statement on behalf of the Save Diamond Head Association and on behalf of the Oahu Development Conference, but the chairman would not let me speak. Why? Because I was not a property owner. He claimed I had no interest in the site. This is after the site had been declared a state monument and everyone knew its importance. Then he turned to Martha, "But you're a property owner. If Mrs. Gerbode wants to speak, now is the time for her to speak." She was too upset to speak and asked me to speak for her. So I presented the usual narrative we had been giving. It made little if any impression on the committee members, because they were not listening to what was being said; they were tuned out completely. Their minds had been set. This was before the public hearing at the complete city council, and they did not know the extent of community concern about this problem. But I'll always remember that committee meeting and Martha Gerbode exasperated as she heard and saw what the future of her property would be." |
Aaron Levine again, speaking about the turnout for a public hearing some time later:
"We had people from eight years old to eighty-eight years old testifying. We had people from all over this island, not just the Outdoor Circle, not just the elite like Martha Gerbode. Some people had said, "Oh, she's a rich lady; she doesn't want anybody else to have anything." But we had people from all over the island, of all income groups." |
The following is from the Gerbode Foundation 1971 Memorium [page 273] for Martha Alexander Gerbode. (It shows a certain bias towards her, as you might expect from a foundation started in large part by herself.)
The strip of land between road and shoreline at Diamond Head is an attractive, buildable area. It is covered by a number of large estates, Mrs. Gerbode's among them. One day, a neighbor expressed a desire for a serious visit with Dr. and Mrs. Gerbode. Pressed by Mrs. Gerbode, he divulged that he and some "friends" had bought a number of estates along that strip and were hoping to buy hers as well. She asked him why, and he described a highrise plan for the area. Hers was a key parcel, along with another which at that time was in probate. The latter parcel would be bought by sealed bid at auction. Mrs. Gerbode wasn't sure; what did he think her land was worth? What, for example, was it worth compared to the property in probate? Her neighbor had indeed bid on that piece, and felt sure of getting it. Mrs. Gerbode pursued: she would have a better idea what her place was worth if she knew what they bid for the other. She finally ended up with at least a close estimate. She hung up, and wrote a check for a bit more than the half million dollars the syndicate was offering. Her bid for the key property was accepted, ruining the syndicate's hopes of highrise at Diamond Head. At subsequent hearings, it became clear that Mrs. Gerbode had started something. A tremendous public turnout, ranging from union chiefs to school children to corporate executives, focused their wrath on the Honolulu City Council. To ignore their voices was political suicide. Highrise zoning was turned down. The same kind of outcry has continued and a new concept, historic-cultural-scenic zoning is now being proposed for Diamond Head. One woman's determination had reversed an impossible situation, and pointed the way toward pubic control of the public destiny. |
Going back in the timelines of the Alexander family and their Diamond Head estate, in 1953, before the Save Diamond Head movement, Martha Alexander Gerbode's oldest son Alec was a student at Stanford University, where he tragically died in an automobile accident at the age of 18. The following quote is from Maryanna Shaw, the daughter of Martha and younger sister of Alec.
"She [Martha Alexander Gerbode] of course experienced great sadness when my brother Alec died. That event produced complete and total denial. His death was never discussed in the family." |
One month after Alec's death, two ("somewhat nonconforming") foster children, a brother and sister (four and six years old), came to live with the family, and six months later they were adopted.
"There was no time to absorb the fact that a family member was gone." |
Martha Alexander Gerbode and her husband Dr. Frank Gerbode, converted a family trust fund in Alec's name to a 501 (c) 3 private foundation, the Wallace Alexander Gerbode Foundation. The Foundation, established in memory of Alec, was involved in many issues including "land use, native Hawaiian culture issues, and environmental concerns and critical issues of public policy". The following passage about the Gerbode Foundation is taken from the interviewer's write-up:
Martha determined to honor Alec's memory by organizing the Wallace Alexander Gerbode Foundation, and providing funds and designated properties for its support. This was the natural development of an informal system Martha had set up in 1951 to deal with philanthropic matters. Maryanna noted that before and during the development of the Gerbode Foundation, Martha had made donations from her own father's family trust, and also made personal gifts to nonprofit groups, a practice she continued after the foundation was in place. By 1953 the Gerbode Foundation had been established with the organization and philosophy to function effectively in selected counties in the San Francisco Bay Area and in the State of Hawaii. |
The foundation still exists today, and it's web page states:
The Wallace Alexander Gerbode Foundation is interested in programs and projects offering potential for significant impact. The primary focus is on the San Francisco Bay Area (counties of Alameda, Contra Costa, Marin, San Francisco and San Mateo) and Hawaii. The Foundation's interests generally fall under the following categories: arts and culture, environment, reproductive rights and health, citizen participation/building communities/inclusiveness, strength of the philanthropic process and the nonprofit sector, Foundation-initiated special projects. |
In the 1984 interview with Dr. Frank Gerbode, the interviewer states that grants by the foundation in 1982 ranged from under one thousand dollars to a one hundred thousand dollar grant which was given to the Nature Conservancy:
Dr. Frank Gerbode: "I'd say the average grant is from one to thirty thousand dollars. There aren't very many one thousand dollar grants, though." Interviewer: "Obviously the foundation's policy is to fund a number of organizations in a modest way rather than to give large sums to a very few organizations." Dr. Frank Gerbode: "I think that's true. Our general policy is to get things started, as I mentioned to you before, which we think would have enough value to be carried by the community, by other organizations. Pickle Family Circus, for example, carries itself now. There are several dance groups, too, that we started--they are mostly connected with various countries--and they are on their own now, too. There's a Holocaust memorial being developed now [by the Palace of the Legion of Honor] to remind people of the number of Jews that were killed during the war. We've supported that because we think it's a good thing to have people see what it was all about. Many people don't think any Jews were killed at all, or there weren't any concentrations camps. A lot of Germans think that, too." Interviewer: "What would you say is the image of the Gerbode Foundation?" Dr. Frank Gerbode: "I think probably the image is one of an organization that is interested in community affairs in the [San Francisco] Bay Area." Interviewer: "There wouldn't be a political coloration? I'm thinking on the scale of conservative to liberal." Dr. Frank Gerbode: "I think we're right in the middle somewhere. For example, we supported the building of the [Louise M. Davies] symphony hall. You might consider that conservative, yet it takes care of a lot of liberal people, too." Interviewer: "Well, things have changed. In the old days it was unusual to fund nature-related activities." Dr. Frank Gerbode: "That's true. I think that people are generally more conscious of preserving green areas. We'd been very interested in this in San Francisco long before the foundation was founded, in being sure that where there was a possibility of making a park, that we could help get the park made. This is a form of nature conservancy, preserving green areas in the community." |
In the same interview Dr. Frank Gerbode mentioned that before 1969, he and his wife (and family I would guess) would occasionally use Lanihau & Haumalu, but a new law concerning nonprofit foundations...
"pretty much forbids personal use by the board of any foundation property. We can go down there for the purposes of looking over the property but we can't go there and entertain." |
Sometime before Martha Alexander Gerbode passed away in 1971, she gave a fifth of the Lanihau property (and Haumalu I suspect) to the Gerbode Foundation. After her death Lanihau and Haumalu both were turned over entirely to the Foundation, as well as a large portion of Mrs. Alexander Gerbode's greater estate. After this the houses were rented through the family foundation. This I believe was the state of Lanihau & Haumalu during the filming of Skin Deep (1.6), The Woman on the Beach (2.3), and Flashback (3.7), all filmed before 1986. So it appears that the money paid for the use of the homes by Magnum, P.I. would have gone to the Gerbode foundation and used in a manner indicted by the interview above.
Martha Alexander Gerbode's husband, Dr. Frank Leven Albert Gerbode died in late 1984, and Lanihau & probably Haumalu were apparently sold in 1986. Unfortunately there is little information about the homes after this date, so I'm unsure who or what organization owned the homes during the filming of The People vs. Orville Wright (7.21), Forever in Time (8.5), and Legend of the Lost Art (8.10). In 1991, Penny Gerbode, daughter of Martha Alexander Gerbode was planning to build a house on Maui that would be a copy, or at least reminiscent of Lanihau. I'm unsure whether or not it was built.
Below are the only additional links I could find concerning the former Alexander Estate homes:
1989 - Foreign Investment Activities in Hawaii and the United States - 1954 Through 1998 .pdf file (search for Lanihau) - This link appears to show that in 1989 Lanihau and Haumalu were purchased by the Japanese company Uemoto International.
10.4.1996 - Weddings at Lanihau Estate?
12.6.1996 - Diamond Head area again targeted for wedding chapel
7.10.1998 - Businesses moving in helps old buildings stay standing
Diamond's Edge article about a walk on the beaches below Diamond Head (this is the third of five pages, a very good article in my opinion)